Welcome to Ashtanga for Rwanda! This blog documents my preparations for as well as my three months as a volunteer yoga teacher in Rwanda in spring/summer 2011. As a volunteer yoga teacher I will work for Project Air, a not-for-profit organisation that has implemented a unique program to help survivors deal with some of the trauma and mental health issues left in the wake of the Rwandan Genocide. Please support my trip through donations here.

Back to life, back to “reality”… and towards new beginnings!

October 11th, 2011

Two and a half weeks have passed since I left Kigali and Rwanda. For two and a half weeks I’ve been back in London trying to fit into the very different life here. It feels like I’ve been to the moon and come back. Or maybe more like the time in Rwanda was a dream and that while I was dreaming for four months, everything was on hold here in London. Obviously it wasn’t.

Coming back  is much harder than I thought it would be.  Reality - meaning what is reality here in London - feels odd and just not right. How can this part of the world have so much when another part has so little? How can we in the “developed world” be so detached from the source of life, from love for each other, from where our food comes from etc? How can we be so attached to stuff, to buying even more stuff when we don’t need it and to think this is all going to make us happy?

During my first week back, I was surfing on a wave of adrenaline. The excitement of being back, of finally meeting up with my dear friends, of having interesting stories to tell and of teaching “normal” yoga classes again, was carrying me forward. I was on a high that kept me hovering 10cm above the ground. Positive emotions and wonderful memories from the time in Rwanda made me buzz (for a summary of those memories please see the picture gallery on my website).

But the excitement also detached me from my body and mind – with which I had been in perfect sync in Rwanda. Never have I experienced myself so relaxed, grounded and naturally happy as I was when I was together with my Rwandan yoga students. Although it was tough, physically and psychologically to teach people who suffer from various trauma and illnesses, it was also extremely rewarding and relaxing. We somehow helped each other, exchanged positive energies and learnt from each other. I felt like I could truly be myself. Back in London, the ego, the need to please and to justify myself crept up on me (subconsciously) and BANG suddenly - injury in yoga practice.  The body reacted with stiffness exhaustion.  And  my whole mechanism was just screaming NOOOOOO to London.

Although I like my life in London, teaching yoga, doing my life coaching etc, there is also a competitiveness here which - at least for me – is not healthy. Much of that obviously has to do with my own mind but there are also external factors contributing. In Rwanda the pace of life is more relaxed, even if people don’t have enough food to put on the table every day, there is a calm and belief that things do sort themselves out – it’s more “hakuna matata”. The people of Rwanda taught me a lot about myself, about my hang-ups and my fears and it gave me a different perspective on life. At some point I realised that picking up the loose ends upon my return to London was not the way forward. Maybe it would be better to make a clean start somewhere else. And believe it or not – somehow that opportunity arose.

In three weeks time I will be leaving London for new beginnings in Sweden. I will touch down in India, Goa, to see my teachers Rolf & Marci Naujokat for two months before I make my return to Lund, the city in south of Sweden where I grew up and studied. As with Rwanda and my work there being the closure of a circle of events in my life, going back to Lund will be a similar closure. It is where my quest for working with human rights started. It was from there that I set out on my journey to contribute to making people’s lives better through political dialogue. Now I return with the hope of continuing to improve people’s well being  - but this time through yoga. It will be different from teaching yoga here in London or in Rwanda - it will be different yoga adventure but I’m sure it will be a rewarding one.

I leave this posting with a link to a video made by my co-teacher in Rwanda. Niina has compiled a wonderful pot-pourri from the classes we taught together in Kigali with the soundtrack of Ben Harper’s song “With my own two hands”. Click here to see the video

Au revoir…

September 22nd, 2011

… “so long” in French (rather than good bye). It’s time to leave. The bags are packed with dirty laundry, some souvenirs and gifts but most of all with loads and loads of beautiful memories. Four months of teaching yoga to HIV+ women, men and children in Rwanda has been a wonderful gift. It is with a heavy heart that I’ll step on the plane tomorrow. A heart heavy of tears but also a heart full of love.

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It is sad to leave - many tears will fall...

In the beginning there was hesitation, nervousness from my side and curiosity yet distance from my students. As the weeks passed we warmed to each other, got to know each other and although we didn’t understand the other one’s language we somehow still bonded. We laughed, cried, breathed, jumped up, fell over and enjoyed a weekly hour of being human together.

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The yoga classes always contained lots of laughter. When trying to explain Mulabandha everyone would start to giggle hysterically.

I was teaching them yoga, but they were teaching me so much more.  I got to share the destinies of my students, their daily worries, visit some of their homes and meet their lovely children, families and neighbours. I witnessed the poverty most of them live in, the physical and mental challenges of HIV and of current and past psychological trauma.

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Connection though yoga

I also saw and heard from several students how yoga specifically had helped - and still helps - them overcome or deal with the above mentioned issues. Furthermore, knee and back pain, weak bones, sleeping disorders, depression are all symptoms that had disappeared or diminished though yoga practice. Many reported being able to breathe properly for the first time - the permanent pressure they experienced in the chest had vanished.

It’s been amazing to be part of Project Air, helping the people here to improve their lives though simply moving, breathing and laughing together for one hour a week. What I’ll remember the most is the love that is omnipresent, the warmth and the caring for each other. And that is the most important feeling that I will bring back with me. I’m not leaving Rwanda as the “umuzungu” (foreigner) that I was when I arrived, but - as one of the yoga groups officially declared today - as an “inshuti” - meaning friend and sister . I’m going home, but part of my soul has found a new home - and that’s here in Rwanda.

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Leaving with a heart full of love and good memories. No good byes - only "auf wiedersehen"!

Reality check

September 10th, 2011

Being here in Rwanda really puts things into perspective. Although I am a person who tries to recycle, live a more sustainable life by buying locally and not waste food or engage in unnecessary consumption of “stuff”, gadgets or clothes, it becomes so apparent when begin here how comfortable our lives in the “developed world” are. Even if we cut down our consumption and quit the materialistic lifestyle we’re addicted to we’re still so fortunate. We still have access to adequate housing, running water, flushing toilets, schooling, health care, food…. The list can be made long – and it’s all things that we all take for granted. Here in Rwanda most people are lucky to get food for the day; £10 is a fortune here and porcelain toilets and running water are a luxury.

The other day I and my co-teacher were invited to one of our yoga student’s home. He had been asking us for a while to come and meet his family and see his home. He was beaming with pride over the little cracked mud house with a tin roof (held in place by heavy stones) which he was renting. There was only one room that acted as sitting room and bedroom for him, his wife and two little daughters. The floor was made of the same mud as the ground outside. There was no kitchen, only a small stove to put on a coal fire in front of the house, no electricity, no running water – and definitely no porcelain toilet.

Typical houses in Kigali, similar to the one we visited

Typical houses in Kigali, similar to the one we visited

Children in the neighbourhood we visited

Children in the neighbourhood we visited

All the surrounding houses looked the same and when our student, very proud over his neighbourhood, asked “if we had areas like this in our home towns as well?” – I was left with no answer. Ashamed I finally managed to say that it wasn’t possible to compare, that neighbourhoods in London were very different. But in spite of the absence of all the things we spoilt “westerners” would need for a living, there was so much love and warmth in this tiny house - much more than in any western home I’ve visited. Rwandese may be poor in an economic sense, but we - the westerners - are the ones who are really poor. Living our lives isolated from each other, away from our families, afraid of our neighbours and of sitting next to someone on the bus – we deprive ourselves of the love and warmth that exists in abundance here.

That said life is not hunky dory here. It’s a rough and tough existence. While walking through the area to our friend’s house he informed us that the part of the neighbourhood we were passing through was called “California City”. The reason being that this particular area had many gangs which led to much violence, weapons trade etc. I was quite happy to be in the “safe” company of our friend when he mentioned this….

During my time in Rwanda I’ve heard many horrible stories of events that seem to be everyday life here. Men beat their wives, fathers rape their daughters, babies die, and people suffer from malaria, HIV, poverty and of the terrible trauma from the genocide.

Many Rwandese carry a heavy burden

Many Rwandese carry a heavy burden

Every day I’m reminded of how fortunate I am having been born in a European country with all the possibilities and opportunities that an EU passport offers. I hope that by being here I can at least give something back although I cannot give money to all the kids (or adults) who come up to me in the street asking for “amafaranga” or more bluntly “give me your money”.

However through the yoga teaching I now know that I can offer at least some relief to a few individuals. Our friend told me that since he started doing yoga his head felt clearer and he had less tension in both body and mind. The yoga practice empowered him and he had the sensation that everything is possible. In the last few months he had also experienced benefits from specific things I had taught him in his yoga practice. In particular, some advice I had given him had helped him in his profession. It may only be small changes but they make a world of a difference in his life and that means the world to me. The smile on his face and of many others will stay with me forever.

Many have so little in terms of materialistic ways - yet smiles and laughter is everywhere

Many have so little in terms of materialistic ways - yet smiles and laughter is everywhere

In action

September 8th, 2011

It’s about time I published a few pictures from the yoga classes I teach here in Rwanda. See some of the action here below:

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Downward facing dog

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Sun Salutation B

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Strenghtening the back muscles

A helping hand

A helping hand

Samasthiti

Samasthiti

Bakasana - strong men!

Bakasana - strong men!

Carrying the bag with the yoga mats "Rwandan style"

Carrying the bag with the yoga mats "Rwandan style"

Yoga business = dirty business (at least for the feet)

Yoga business = dirty business (at least for the feet)

Good morning sunshine!

August 31st, 2011

Heart shaped sunrise in Kigali - love shines upon us here each day

Heart shaped sunrise in Kigali - love shines upon us here each day

This is my view almost every morning here in Rwanda - unless it is misty and the sunrise isn’t as clear. Every morning, in our private yoga shala here in the house of Project Air, I can see how the sun rises while I do my yoga practice.  This morning was a particularly beautiful morning as the light that shone through heart shaped format of our windows.  Suryanamaskar, the salute to the sun, takes on a whole different meaning here .  It’s such a wonderful and positive way to wake up - the best possible start to each day! I am so grateful for being here and would once again like to thank everyone who has helped make my trip and work here reality.  Lots of sunny love from Rwanda to all of you!

Life is now

August 28th, 2011

"What day is it?"asked Pooh. "It's today," squeaked Piglet. "My favourite day," said Pooh."

"What day is it?"asked Pooh. "It's today," squeaked Piglet. "My favourite day," said Pooh."

I came across this picture the other day and it just warms my heart so much.  Pooh and Piglet have no idea how right they are. Life is now and every day, every moment should be our favourite - even though some days or moments are tougher than others. Nothing lasts forever - neither pain nor pleasure. We live now - but our minds are most often in the past agonizing about things that happened (which we cannot change) or in the future, worrying about what might come (mostly completely unnecessary worries and wasted energy).

Yoga and mindfulness practice aims to help us become more focused and to live in the present. It becomes particularly apparent in the classes we teach here in Rwanda where many of our participants face serious challenges in their lives due to poverty, HIV and other illnesses, in addition to the trauma they’ve suffered in the past. The hour of yoga they receive each week allows them to just be on the mat with their breath and their body and live in that particular moment. Although they might have come to class with a heavy heart or distressed mind, the yoga practice visibly releases tensions, brings laughter and energy. Suddenly, the bad memories or future worries that were carried into the room in heavy “invisible back packs” are distant.  Slouching shoulders or hunching backs are replaced by straight spines and proud postures.  Corners of the mouth that were dropping are now rising into wide smiles and frowning foreheads are flattened. As the teacher it’s deeply humbling experience to be part of. And it teaches me just as much how important it is to enjoy the moment, today - because life is now (however hard or enjoyable it may be at this very time) and we only have one chance at it!

Useless….

August 25th, 2011

Joint and muscle pain - feel smuch like having fallen down a staircase

Joint and muscle pain - feel smuch like having fallen down a staircase

…that’s how I feel at the moment. The decision to stay in Rwanda for another five weeks had just been taken last week and things seemed fine. Sunday (which is the starting day of each yoga week) began with a bustling kids’ yoga class – there were no mats left and more children kept coming to join (next week we’ll have to pack more mats). The room was heaving and the kids couldn’t get enough. All thanks to our Rwandan trainee who’s been teaching extra yoga classes to the kids during the last three weeks’ summer camp here in Kigali (organised by our partner organisation We-ActX).

Monday and Sunday followed in the same fashion with lots of energy and many enthusiastic participants in the women’s and men’s classes. It was quite exhausting to teach because the weather has been extremely hot these last few days. But the mood in the classes was excellent and I never had time to think about exhaustion. So it took me by surprise when I did my own practice yesterday morning. Suddenly I started fading and all joints started hurting. I had to stop and lay  in a little heap on the floor. Did a long Savasana, but it didn’t help. When sitting at the Immigration office to apply for an extension to my visa, pain was going through my joints and muscles in waves and I felt very weak. Needless to say I spent the rest of the day in bed.

The night was horrible with aches still continuing, but no fever - just this excruciating pain everywhere. So I had to cancel yoga class with one of the groups this morning. And that feels horrible. I’m here to teach and help people who I’m sure suffer from much worse aches and pains than I do – and having to cancel and stay in bed makes me feel so useless. But just lifting the tea cup hurts my wrist at the moment, so teaching a class with jumps and weight on the arms seems like light years away… Luckily we have a visitor/researcher from the U.S. who is doing a survey on what impact yoga has had on the participants of the counselling groups, so the time can be used for the interviews instead.

Exhaustion, or whatever this is, is quite common here. As yoga teachers we’re very exposed to the illnesses that our clients carry with them. Since we work with HIV positive people who often suffer from all kinds of flu’s, malaria (although that isn’t contagious), lesions on feet and legs etc, it’s not so strange that once in a while something will get to us however much we think of hand hygiene. Food here is also not as nutritious due to soil erosion and we need to be careful with dehydration and food poisoning (due to heat, cock roaches that roam the kitchen etc). I just hope that this low will be short lived. It feels shit (excuse my French) to just have decided to stay and then suddenly not be of any use. Useless, that’s how I feel…


Magic – how one week turned into five!

August 19th, 2011

When I wrote my last post I had just returned to Kigali after an amazing three day trip around the western and southern parts of Rwanda. I was full of impressions and emotions caused by the intensity of the experiences on the trip, of the beauty of this country and the dark history it harbours. I also had to come to terms with that my time in Rwanda was running out and that in about a week I would be returning to life in London. Just at a moment where I felt the connection with the yoga participants was moving to a deeper level, where I could actually start to contribute to make a real difference, I would have to leave.

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Yoga is a step by step progress. Time is needed for teaching and practicing. Here - preparation for Bakasana, Crow pose :o)

So, it takes time to adjust to the groups, to the variations in energy and mood and to get to know the different personalities of the participants – which can be up to 25-30 in one group. Obviously, it also takes time for the participants to get used to the new volunteer teacher, to trust him/her and establish a relationship. A few weeks ago, I felt we had reached that stage of mutual trust and respect where I as a yoga teacher could start to make some real difference. Despite the language barrier a sense of understanding had established itself between the groups and me, and between me and the counsellors. And then it was suddenly time to prepare to leave….

Just when I had gotten used to being here, I had to leave. And it was unimaginable how I was going to be able to physically pack my bags and step on to that plane. That plane for Nairobi and then London which is departing tonight…. But, it is departing without me! Tinkerbell had struck her magic wand! Within a week, circumstances changed on several levels and I suddenly had an opportunity to stay in Kigali for another month (5 weeks to be more exact). The time I felt I owed to the yogis, the women, men and children who had put their trust in me for the last 12 weeks. Needless to say that I took this opportunity!


Happy hula hooping!

Happy hula hooping!

With the decision to stay came not only smiles and happiness from the people around me, but it also fundamentally changed my mood. I had been quite mellow following the three day Rwanda-trip which probably also spilled over onto my teaching and classes seemed a bit low on energy. But immediately energy and laughter was back, silliness and playfulness now fills each class and the children sing “my” Rwandan song when I come to class. The song is “Bella”, a summer hit by the Rwandan artist Kitoko and the group Deam Boyz (the name says it all).  It just makes me smile and I feel so lucky to be here! It’s a life changing experience!

With this I leave you to enjoy the song – follow this link to see the video (I was unable to include it in this post) – and hope that you’ll follow my writings for the 5 weeks to come!




Beauty and the Beast

August 10th, 2011

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Rwanda is one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever been to. It is also one of the countries with the darkest recent history that I’ve visited (China being another). At a time when I was graduating from high school, free from worries other than ordinary western teenage “love-troubles”, with all the possibilities of life laying ahead of me, Rwandan teenagers were being murdered by kids their own age or by their parents. Why? - They happened to belong to the wrong “race”. “Race” – a word not know to Rwandans before the arrival of the Europeans in the early 20th century. Before the white man set foot in the country, conflict between the three peoples of Rwanda was very unusual. But the white man’s racial theories set up a new hierarchy which would lay the ground for the killing of the Tutsi population that took place at several occasions from 1959 and which culminated in the genocide in 1994.

The contrast of the beauty of Rwanda and it’s horrific past, together with the traumatized population, is hard to explain to anyone who hasn’t been here. Through this blog I try to portray the country through visits I have done to different places and through the work that I do here with Project Air. Yet, the written word is not enough to describe what one experiences here - but sadly it remains the only way to transmit my experience to most of my friends and family, and of course those who read this blog whom I don’t know personally.

But, last weekend I was lucky to receive a visit from someone very dear to me. Someone with whom I have shared a lot in the past and with whom I would now also be able to share part of my Rwanda experience. Someone who would understand what I’d seen and heard here and someone who would be able to relate to my descriptions of the beauty and horrors encountered.

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Kibuye memorial church

We travelled for three days, leaving Kigali first for Kibuye, a small town on the lake Kivu. The area around Kibuye is one where more than 90% of the Tutsi population was killed during the genocide. At the entrance of town there is a beautiful church in commemoration of those who died. The church is a very peaceful place, different from other genocide memorials as it is still being used for Sunday service. We stopped here for a moment of contemplation to honour those who lost their lives.

Travelling south from Kibuye to the lakeside town of Cyangugu on the Congolese border, we drove along one of the most beautiful sceneries I’ve ever seen. From the dirt road in the hills the view over the lake was stunning and the rolling green hills would just never end. After having spent the night in Cyangugu, we made our way to Nyungwe forest – a national park in the south of Rwanda known for its many primates. We were lucky to see several species of monkeys, birds and butterflies as well as the beauty of the last remaining rain forest in the country. Some of the trees were thousands of years old.

Mountain monkey

Mountain monkey

Nyungwe forest

Nyungwe forest

The day after Nyungwe, we went to the Murambi genocide memorial located close to the southern university town of Butare. Murambi is a former technical school which lies on a hill. Tutsis who fled the massacre in 1994 were told by the authorities to go to the school as they would be protected there. This was a lie. Instead, the location of the school on a hill allowed for an easy target. 27 000 people were killed at the school and 45 000 people in total were killed in the area. Only 11 people are said to be survivors from the school massacre. Today Murambi is a museum where some 800 bodies have been preserved to educate visitors of the horrors that took place there.

Murambi genocide memorial

Murambi genocide memorial

Speechless we stood on the hill with the mass graves under our feet, the buildings with the mummified half-decayed bodies behind us, the stench still in our noses and the images of the corpses of women and babies etched for ever onto our retinas. Around us the beauty of the Rwandan country side, the tea and coffee plantations, the terraced hills and the sound of a lively church service in the back ground. These contrasts of beauty and horror followed us on the drive back to Kigali.

Tea plantations in southern Rwanda

Tea plantations in southern Rwanda

Beautiful terraced hills

Beautiful terraced hills

I now only have a little more than a week left of my three months here. I am overwhelmed by the warmth of the people here, their strength, their will to live and their hope for the future. They continue to fight even though the beast of history lures in the dark of their minds. What I’ve experienced here really puts things into perspective and I will need time to digest upon my return to London.

Ahimsa!

July 29th, 2011

In my work here in Rwanda I meet women who have experienced great violence, rape and abuse, either during the genocide in 1994 or more recently by male relatives, husbands, neighbours or strangers. Project Air deals with their physical and mental rehabilitation though yoga. But the yoga classes also contribute to the prevention of further abuse of women in Rwandese society.

Yoga allows the women to reconnect with their body, to heal physically and mentally. It allows them to recognise and appreciate their strength and their worth as individuals and as human beings. It indirectly teaches them that they can stand up for themselves, that they have a voice that matters and that they can say no! Most importantly, the change these women go through is transmitted to their children – both the boys and the girls. The children grow up with strong female role models and are more likely to adopt a different view of and behaviour with regards to t. heir own gender. A gradual change of the male and female stereotypes begins.

But it’s not easy to induce change in a society with long held traditions of male and female roles. Not even our own countries are very good at that – which is something that we tend to forget (thinking of the recent famous rape cases involving Julian Assange or Dominique Strauss-Kahn )! In Rwanda my most recent experience of gender roles was yesterday when one of the counsellors from our partner organisation was chocked that I was not yet married and that I might not want to have children. To her, a girl had to get married (she’s 25 years old by the way) otherwise she would be badly viewed in society. According to her, children were the purpose of life, and “le Bonheur du couple” as she expressed it French. I don’t dispute her opinion – it may be the case for many - but she definitely disputed mine. Unless I found a husband and had a child (soon!) my life would be worthless.

Although the Rwandese constitution provides that “All citizens are equal before the law, without discrimination on the basis of ethnic origin, tribe, clan, colour, sex, region, social origin, religion or faith opinion, economic status, culture, language, social status, or physical or mental disability.” problems of implementation in the “private sphere” remain.

Gender roles are deeply rooted in Rwandese society with the man being the head of the family. Violence within the family is often due to the extreme poverty – people (including the ones we meet in yoga) cannot afford to eat every day – unemployment, HIV, sexual incapability etc).

The law criminalises rape and spousal rape as well as domestic violence. However, in 2009 figures from the National Institute of Statistics indicated that 31 percent of women over the age of 15 were victims of domestic violence and 10.2 percent of women experienced domestic violence during pregnancy. A new law on the prevention and punishment of gender-based violence came into effect in April 2009 and provides for imprisonment of six months to two years for threatening, harassing, or beating one’s spouse. In the first six months of 2009 there were police reported on 1,572 cases of gender-based violence, however most cases are normally handled within the context of the extended family.

Nevertheless, since the genocide in 1994 there have also been positive developments with regards to women’s rights. Women are now allowed to inherit property – something which became important after the genocide when mostly women were left to rebuild the country. Also, Rwanda made history in 2008 when following the election that year, 56 percent of the politicians sent to Parliament were women. Two years before that, women were elected to a third of all mayoral-level posts and women lead a third of Rwanda’s ministries. But despite this women continue to have limited opportunities for education, employment, and promotion.

Efforts have been made to educate and better equip the police for cases of gender violence. Each of the 62 police stations nationwide has its own gender desk, trained officer, and public outreach program. There are hotlines for domestic violence and penalties for rape are from 10 years’ to life imprisonment. The penalty for spousal rape ranges from six months’ to two years’ imprisonment. In recent years, those convicted of rape have generally received prison sentences of between one year and life.

However, positive developments in the legislative field are not enough unless attitudes amongst both men and women are changed. Yoga can have a positive impact here as participants through the practice get to know their self-value, they learn to control impulses, emotions and thoughts and the respect of non-violence towards one-self and others. Ahimsa!